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Veiled Chameleon Care

Veiled Chameleon Care Guide

Basic Information

Veiled chameleons are an increasingly popular reptile hailing from the various environments of Yemen and Saudi Arabia. They’ve evolved to live among the trees with their prehensile toes and tail and monocular vision. Like many chameleons, they can change their colors, whether it's for camouflage or simply being in a certain mood. These exotic reptiles are considered an intermediate-level pet because of their poor handling tolerance and their extensive husbandry requirements. With proper care, they can live up to 5 years or more.

 

Health

Vieled Chameleons are susceptible to obesity in adulthood. When feeding an adult chameleon, only feed around 4-5 gut-loaded insects every few days. It’s natural for an adult chameleon to have a bit of girth, but if it's followed by swollen limbs, slow movement, and difficulty moving, consider reducing the feeding amounts. 

Chameleons need a calcium and multivitamin supplement in their diet every so often, which can be done by dusting the food regularly consumed. Otherwise, they can develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). This can manifest as deformed or weakened limbs and a weaker jaw, which can prevent the reptile from eating correctly. Increase calcium and vitamin intake as needed. 

Because of their unique water drinking methods, veiled chameleons are more susceptible to dehydration, which can be caused by poor husbandry practices. They require access to water through either drip systems or frequent misting, especially on the leaves in the enclosure. Signs to look for are lethargy, sunken eyes, and poor skin health. 

Handling is not recommended for veiled chameleons. Physically, they are easily prone to injuries and can very quickly become stressed or irritable because of their temperaments. If you absolutely must handle one, use slow, careful movements and allow the chameleon to walk onto your hand or a sturdy item. Never force handling!


Enclosures

The ideal enclosure for a veiled chameleon requires ample space and should be equipped with screen sides, a slide-out substrate tray, and a lockable door. The minimum enclosure size you should get is a 50-gallon arboreal, screen enclosure; always opt for a larger one if possible. For accessories, focus on climbable accessories such as branches of varying sizes and lengths. Include a surplus of hanging foliage, as you want to provide branch space out in the open and branch space that is hidden underneath foliage for the chameleon to hide and feel secure. Hidden perching areas will also allow the chameleon to block light from above when it wants to. **Only house one chameleon per enclosure.

 

Heating/Lighting

Their basking spot should be around 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit, which can be achieved with a daylight basking bulb. The general, ambient temperature during the day should be around 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit and fall to about 70-75 at night. The vital thing to note here is that placing their basking spot, which is going to be with a lamp of some sort, requires more attentive care, as chameleons can easily burn themselves. The lamp should be placed a few inches above the enclosure, but must also not be so far away that the chameleon cannot bask properly. Do not leave the lights on for more than a few hours at a time; excessive light can cause stress. A UVB light is required for chameleons for about 10 hours a day. If an alternative heat source is needed, use a heat mat under the enclosure, along with a thermometer, to prevent the temperature from rising too high to cause burns. Allow the chameleon to experience an area with natural sunlight for a few hours a day if possible. 

 

Substrate

The substrate is not as crucial for a veiled chameleon's enclosure, as the high amount of moisture added will affect most substrates and cause molding. Thus, simple choices like newspaper, reptile carpet, paper towels, or a thin layer of coconut fiber will suffice and make it easy to clean up after them. Clean frequently, and replace paper products often. 

 

Humidity

Humidity is significant for veiled chameleons as they will get a majority of their hydration from breathing in the humid air, especially at night. Humidity levels vary during the day compared to nighttime. During the day, you want to keep the humidity around 35-50%, as they are accustomed to a drier environment during the daytime. At night, however, humidity levels should be high, at around 80-100%. Screen enclosures can sometimes be detrimental to animals that require high humidity; therefore, we recommend installing solid panels on the sides to retain humidity more effectively or using silicone covers to prevent this issue. Alternatively, you can use a fogger to allow humid air to flow through the enclosure. Keep in mind that during the day, the enclosure cannot be wet, as chameleons can develop rot on their feet if their perches are constantly moist. Therefore, ensure everything is dry. Too high or too low moisture levels can cause health issues for the chameleon, which can include respiratory problems, moldy limbs, and dehydration. 

 

Water

Veiled chameleons will not drink water from a bowl. Instead, make a habit of misting the enclosure lightly several times a day, as the chameleon will drink running water off the leaves. Alternatively, you can use a dripper to simulate rainfall and dew on leaves. 

 

Food

Gut-loaded insects will primarily make up the diet of a veiled chameleon. Although there is some discussion about whether to add vegetation and fruits, there is almost no necessity to do so besides some extra moisture in their diet. Juvenile chameleons may be fed small crickets or dubia roaches daily, as much as they can eat. Adult chameleons may be fed crickets, dubia roaches, superworms, silkworms, and hornworms every 2-3 days. Insects should be fed in a feeder dish on the ground or a hanging bug bar to prevent the chameleon from ingesting anything else and the insects from escaping. Feed adult chameleons only a few gut-loaded insects each feeding, as their diet must be monitored at adulthood to prevent obesity. Supplements of multivitamins and calcium are recommended alternately every other feeding. 

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