Green Anole Care

Green Anole Care Guide

Basic Information

Green anoles have become a popular pet for kids over the years. They are known for their vibrant green color that changes into brown depending on their mood. Anoles are generally very interactive with people and very friendly in personality. Due to the fact that they are native to southern states in the U.S., there is an abundance of them for purchase in the reptile world making them cheap to buy. However, their husbandry still requires a lot of care just like any other reptile. Anoles can live up to around 7-8 years with care. 

Health

Reptiles need a supplement of calcium and D3 in their diet every so often, which can be done by dusting their regularly consumed insects or food. Otherwise, they can develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). This can look like deformed or weakened limbs and a weaker jaw, which can prevent the reptile from eating correctly. Increase calcium and D3 intake as needed. **It is recommended that their food be dusted weekly with calcium/D3 supplement. 

Because of their unique water drinking methods, green anoles are more susceptible to dehydration, which can be caused by poor husbandry practices. They require access to water through either drip systems or frequent misting, especially on the leaves in the enclosure. Signs to look for are lethargy, sunken eyes, and poor skin health. 

Be careful when handling anoles. They are very fast and can hurt themselves when falling from certain heights. They can easily be startled enough to drop their tails so NEVER handle them by their tails. 

Enclosures

For green anoles, not a lot of space is required. A 10-gallon tank can easily house 1-2 anoles, while a 20-gallon tank can hold 3-4. However, one thing to keep in mind is the need for ventilation. A screen enclosure that is frequently used for chameleons is recommended, as not only does it meet ventilation requirements, but it also has the right amount of arboreal space for these reptiles, as they do have great climbing ability and like arboreal and terrestrial space. 

For decor, add a lot of foliage and shrubbery as they provide security to anoles, particularly if you are housing multiple. Hideaways are also recommended, such as caves and cork rounds in both the cool and warm areas of the enclosure. Adding branches and bark is beneficial not only for enrichment but also for providing sufficient basking areas for the anole to adjust to. Keep in mind that with the high humidity requirement, you will need to clean and disinfect decorations periodically to prevent any bacterial growth or mold. 

Heating/Lighting

It is recommended for green anoles to follow a 12-hour day and 12-hour night cycle. Using a basking spot lamp on top of the enclosure is recommended to create a hotspot for temperature regulation, while maintaining a cooler end toward the bottom. If you have an enclosure focused more on length instead, have one end be your basking area and one end be the cool area.  A UVB bulb is recommended to support overall health and digestion. Turn all the lights off at night. If you need a supplementary heat source at night, use a nighttime bulb that emits no light or a heat mat under the enclosure hooked up to a thermometer. 

For temperatures, we recommend higher temperatures of around 85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit during the day with a high temp basking spot and around 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Create an ambient temperature gradient in the enclosure by placing the heat sources strategically to allow thermoregulation.  Use a thermometer with probes on both ends of the enclosure. 

Substrate

Since anoles need a high level of humidity in their enclosure, we recommend using a substrate that handles moisture well. Coco fiber with sphagnum moss is a great option and can handle frequent misting with dry periods in between. The sphagnum moss will help keep the required humidity in the enclosure. Anoles do not dig or burrow, so you only need a few inches of substrate on the bottom of the enclosure. 

Humidity

Green Anoles need high humidity in the range of 60-70%. This comes with the responsibility of misting the enclosure several times a day, ideally in the morning and at night. The water droplets from misting will be the primary hydration source for anoles. Some owners may find it a struggle to maintain the high humidity range when using a screen enclosure. Covering some of the sides of the enclosure with a silicone cover may help maintain a better humidity level. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels in the enclosure.

Water

Anoles will get a majority of their hydration from the droplets of water from misting. However, you should still provide a small, shallow water dish on the bottom of the enclosure. Reptiles may spend their time soaking in the water dish for hydration or to help with shedding, so it's more beneficial to include a water dish. Keep in mind that anoles are not great swimmers, so be sure it is shallow enough that it can soak its body but keep its head above the water. 

Food

An anole’s diet consists of gut-loaded insects, which include dubia roaches, mealworms, silkworms, and red wiggler worms. The food items should be no longer than the width between the anole’s eyes. Offer only a few food items during feeding as overfeeding can lead to obesity. Juvenile anoles should be fed daily, while adult anoles should be fed every 2-3 days. Dusting the food with calcium with D3 is recommended to add more nutritional value alongside the already gut-loaded insects. Remove any uneaten insects after a few hours. **While activity is encouraged, we recommend using a food dish to avoid any possible ingestion of substrate.