Glass Tree Frog Care

Glass Tree Frog Care Guide

Basic Information

Glass tree frogs are a rare species of frogs in the pet world. They are known for their transparent skin on certain parts of their body. Although small, they can live up to 10 years in captivity with proper care and attention. While they are low-maintenance, their husbandry requirements make them an intermediate-level pet, even for experienced frog owners. Obtaining a glass tree frog can also be tricky, as many species are considered endangered. Therefore, please conduct your research before purchasing and ensure the animal comes from a reputable seller. 

Health

It is not recommended to handle a glass tree frog. They have very delicate skin and can absorb whatever may be on your hands. Their size also makes handling risky, as they do not grow much more than an inch, sometimes slightly more if they are female. If you absolutely must handle them, use powder-free gloves and coax them into a cupped hand. Be very careful, as they may jump and escape, which can become a hassle, especially if they escape from the enclosure. This can become very life-threatening if this does happen. 

Proper enclosure care is crucial for preventing bacterial and fungal infections, as well as dehydration, in glass tree frogs. Be sure to clean regularly, maintain optimal humidity levels at all times, and provide sufficient ventilation in the enclosure. 

Enclosures

The standard size for a glass tree frog enclosure is 20 gallons or more, depending on whether multiple tree frogs are being housed at a time. The enclosure should be taller rather than wider, as these frogs are arboreal and will spend a lot of time hiding in the decorations provided. Be sure that the enclosure also has proper ventilation, as stagnant air in the enclosure can be detrimental to the frog’s health. For decorations, a variety of plants is ideal. Plants should fill up about half of the enclosure space as glass frogs will spend all day hiding among the plants until they come out in the evening. When setting up a bioactive enclosure, be sure not to use plants that are toxic to glass tree frogs, as they can absorb the toxins through their skin, which may lead to death. 

**If housing multiple, only keep up to 2 males or 3 females in the same enclosure. Be sure there are ample hiding areas, as males will fight and try to eat each other. They can become increasingly territorial and aggressive toward each other, so proper management of the frogs and space in their enclosure is recommended. If housing more, increase the size of the enclosure and provide even more foliage.  

Heating/Lighting

Additional lighting for glass tree frogs is typically not necessary. They go along a normal day cycle of 12 hours with light and 12 hours with no light. The only time they would need lighting is if either their enclosure is in an area that doesn’t have a regular light cycle or if there is a bioactive setup that requires lighting for plants. If that’s the case, use a standard light bulb that meets the requirements for the plants and does not give off any excess heat. UVB is not required but is recommended for the health and well-being of the frog. The addition of UVB lighting will also determine if their calcium and multivitamins need to have D3 or not. If providing UVB, use a small bulb with a fixture that does not touch the enclosure. 

Additional heating is also not necessary. If you keep the enclosure in an area of the house that typically stays in the mid-70s range (Fahrenheit), then the frog will be comfortable. If possible, provide a slight temperature gradient from the low 70s to the high 70s in the enclosure using a ceramic bulb. This will allow the frog to regulate its body temperature more effectively. 

Substrate

For the substrate, use something that retains moisture well to help maintain optimal humidity levels. Coconut coir is an excellent choice and can be easily obtained in stores, and is also compatible with a bioactive setup. You can also provide a layer of moss on top of the substrate for better moisture retention. However, if providing moss, the moss must be flattened to the substrate to decrease the risk of the frog ingesting it while pouncing on their food. Alternatively, you can use a soil blend with peat moss to replace the substrate with a moss-on-top combination. 

Humidity

Since they are native to more tropical areas, the glass tree frog enclosure should mimic their humidity levels. You want to maintain a humidity level of around 70% at all times in the enclosure. This can be achieved by regularly misting the enclosure, either manually with a spray bottle or through a misting system. Having a source of running water in the enclosure can also help add humidity, although it will not be enough to suffice on its own. Ensure the enclosure also has proper ventilation, along with adequate humidity, to prevent stagnant humidity. Stagnant, humid air can foster the growth of bacteria and mold within the enclosure. Too low humidity levels can cause the enclosure to become too dry, which can lead to dehydration in the frog and potentially result in death. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels at all times. 

Water

Along with misting, providing a water dish is also recommended. This will allow the frog to soak if necessary and provide an additional source for maintaining humidity in the enclosure and hydration for the frog. However, be sure to fill the water dish with rocks or some other solid material so it's extremely shallow, as the frog is so small that it could drown easily. 

Food

Glass tree frogs are insectivores and should be fed in the evening as they become more active at night. Young juveniles should be fed daily, while adults can be fed every other day. Fruit flies will be the primary food source when they are young, and plenty of them, as they have a large appetite. Adults can eat mealworms and pinhead crickets. Let the insects loose in the enclosure to promote healthy hunting activity for the frog, as they are known for jumping at their prey with their mouths open. Calcium should be supplied every feeding, and multivitamins should be provided weekly. **The addition of D3 will be dependent on whether or not you provide UVB lighting. 

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