Red-tailed Boa Care

Basic Information

Boas are a popular snake option for reptile pet owners. This guide will cover the basics of owning a red-tail boa, which is commonly found in pet stores. Red-tail boas are named for the red pattern on the ends of their tail and are native to more tropical regions. Compared to other species of boas, red-tails have a more docile temperament. They can live up to 25-30 years if well cared for and can reach up to 10 feet long in length. These snakes are absolutely not for everyone and need careful consideration regarding housing and cost, as this would be a long-time commitment. 

Health

Like many reptiles, red-tail boas experience brumation. Brumation is common in the colder months, and owners may notice their snakes not eating as often or refusing meals. This is normal and only a concern if they suddenly start losing weight. 

Another common issue that boa owners may face is a stuck shed. A stuck shed happens when the humidity levels get too low, and the snake cannot naturally peel off its own shed. A simple remedy is to mist the enclosure to provide a more humid environment for the snake to shed in. If the stuck shed persists, soaking the boa in a shallow bin of warm water for 15-30 minutes is recommended. 

It is important to always quarantine your new snake in a temporary setup with paper towels. Most snakes can be at risk for a parasite called snake smites. These parasites look like tiny black dots and can appear on snakes and various surfaces in the enclosure. While not fatal, they are very hard to eliminate if they become a heavy infestation and can cause the snake’s health to deteriorate. If the snake does become infested, it should be moved to a sterile setup with paper towels and plastic items. The enclosure should then be thoroughly bleached and cleaned. Prevent-a-mite is recommended to use to kill off anything that could be lingering and prevent future infestations. The snake can be soaked in water to drown the mites. 

Enclosures

Regarding enclosures for red-tail boas, the tank should grow with the snake. Young boas can make do with 10-20 gallon enclosures, while adult boas can reach up to a 70-gallon or more enclosure. The enclosure mustn't be too big for a younger boa, as too much space can stress it out. Tanks and bins are cheaper options but must be modified to fit the snake's needs. It’s recommended to have an enclosure with some ventilation, but not enough to drastically affect the humidity levels. The opening, whether a screen or door, must also be secure as the snake can easily escape from their enclosures if given the opportunity. Boas are especially crafty and have a good amount of muscle, so it's highly recommended to have a screen top with secure clips holding it down.

Boas like to hide and feel secure, so it's recommended that the enclosure be opaque or covered to some degree on some sides. Plenty of backgrounds can be used, like cork tile or cloth. We also recommend supplying ample decorations for hiding like caves, cork bark, logs, or even a hide box. Boas are more terrestrial as they age, so add foliage, branches, and rocks along the bottom of the enclosure. 

Heating/Lightning

There are several options for heating the enclosure of a red-tailed boa. Heat tape, ceramic bulbs, heat mats, and basking bulbs are all good options. The humidity must be monitored with some of these options, as they can dry out the enclosure. As with most reptiles, there should be a hot and cool end. The hot end can range between 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool end can range between 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit. This is important for the snake to be able to self-regulate its temperature. A thermometer with probes is recommended to monitor both ends of the enclosure. **We recommend not using a heat rock for boas; they can cause severe burns. 

Regarding lighting, red-tailed boas are nocturnal, so only a daytime bulb is necessary. A proper daytime basking bulb for ambient temperature in the enclosure will suffice. Be careful when choosing a bulb, as some bulbs can emit light and heat, so research bulbs for your setup. Turning the lights off at night is beneficial to simulate a day-night cycle with slight temperature drops. However, ensure the temperature does not fall below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Provide a heat source that can be used at night as well, preferably a heat mat, as they like underbelly heat. They do not require UVB light.

Substrate

There is a wide variety of substrate options available for red-tail boas. When choosing a substrate, it is important to look for something that can hold humidity well, not get too damp, and not be susceptible to mold. We recommend using reptile carpet, coco husk, or paper bedding. Mixed bedding is another option, as soil with sphagnum moss is great for maintaining humidity in the enclosure. Aspen wood shavings are another option, but the shavings must be replaced weekly to prevent an overly wet, molding substrate in the enclosure. Snake droppings should be removed daily to prevent the substrate from getting gross.  **DO NOT use any sort of cedar or pine bedding! They contain oils that are toxic to snakes!

Humidity

Red-tailed boas prefer a humidity level between 60% and 80% in their enclosure. The substrate should be frequently checked because of the high humidity required to ensure no mold develops. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels. 

Water

Boas need a large, shallow dish for hydrating and soaking. Replace the water every couple of days. If the water dish is soiled, remove it and clean it thoroughly before adding more water. 

Food

The diet of a Red-Tailed Boa consists of mostly rodents and small rabbits. Regarding rodents, younger boas eat anything from a fuzzy to a small rat, and adults can eat up to a large rat or a jumbo. However, the best way to determine the size of rodent needed for the snake is to ensure the rodent is no bigger than the circumference of the snake. For boas, the size will change constantly based on how many months/years old the snake is. We recommend using frozen/thawed-out rodents, which are cheap, easy to store, and will not harm the snake. If using live rodents, it's a good idea to put the snake in a separate bin for feeding with the live rodent. That way, the feeding session can be watched to prevent the rodent from potentially injuring the snake. We also recommend using tongs to transfer the feeder rodent instead of the hand as the snake can mistake the hand for food. Juvenile snakes should be fed every 7-10 days; adult snakes should be fed every 10-14 days. Do not handle the snake for a day after feeding, as this can disrupt digestion. 

When thawing a frozen rodent for feeding, select whichever rodent that will be fed and put it in a sealed plastic bag in the fridge. Once it's thawed, put it in a bowl of warm water and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then run hot water over the bag to bring the feeder rodent to a more ‘live’ temperature and feed it to the snake with tongs. **Do not microwave frozen rodents. Do not refreeze after unthawing, as this can cause bacteria.

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