Ball Python Care

Basic Information

Ball Pythons are a great beginner snake to have. Named for how they curl into a ball, these snakes are docile, friendly, and a great long-term pet, reaching up to 30 years of age. They come in various patterns and colors and have different personalities. Ball pythons are solitary snakes, so they thrive independently in their own enclosure. Handling these snakes is perfectly fine; however, be sure to get to know your snakes, as although they are generally docile, they can have different personalities. 

Health

Like many reptiles, ball pythons experience brumation. Brumation is common in the colder months, and owners may notice their snakes not eating as often or refusing meals. This is normal and only a concern if they suddenly start losing weight. 

Another common issue ball python owners may face is a stuck shed. A stuck shed happens when the humidity levels get too low, and the ball python cannot naturally peel off its own shed. A simple remedy is to mist the enclosure to provide a more humid environment for the ball python to shed in. If the stuck shed persists, soaking the ball python in a shallow bin of warm water for 15-30 minutes is recommended. 

It is important to always quarantine your new ball python in a temporary setup with paper towels. Ball pythons can be at risk for a parasite called snake smites. These parasites look like tiny black dots and can appear on snakes and various surfaces in the enclosure. While not fatal, they are very hard to eliminate if they become a heavy infestation and can cause the ball python’s health to deteriorate. If the snake does become infested, it should be moved to a sterile setup with paper towels and plastic items. The enclosure should then be thoroughly bleached and cleaned. Prevent-a-mite is recommended to use to kill off anything that could be lingering and prevent future infestations. The ball python can be soaked in water to drown the mites. 

Enclosures

When it comes to enclosures for ball pythons, bigger is always better. Young ball pythons can make do with 10-20 gallon enclosures, while adult ball pythons do well in 40-gallon or more enclosures. Tanks and bins are good cheaper options but must be modified to fit the needs of a ball python. It’s recommended to have an enclosure with some ventilation, but not enough to affect the humidity levels. The opening, whether a screen or door, must also be secure as ball pythons can easily escape from their enclosures if given the opportunity. 

Ball pythons like to hide and feel secure, so it's recommended that the enclosure be opaque or covered to some degree on some sides. Plenty of backgrounds can be used, like cork tile or cloth. We also recommend supplying ample decorations for hiding, like caves, cork bark, logs, and foliage. Likewise, they like to climb, so providing things that add height, like branches and tall rocks, would enrich the enclosure and allow them to make an ideal basking spot. 

Heating/Lighting

There are several options for heating the enclosure of a ball python. Heat tape, ceramic bulbs, heat mats, and basking bulbs are all good options. The humidity must be monitored with some of these options, as they can dry out the enclosure. As with most reptiles, there should be a hot and cool end. The hot end can range between 85-95 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool end can range between 76-85 degrees Fahrenheit. This is important for the snake to be able to self-regulate its temperature. A thermometer with probes is recommended to monitor both ends of the enclosure. **We recommend not using a heat rock for ball pythons; they can cause severe burns. 

Regarding lighting, ball pythons are nocturnal, so only a daytime bulb is necessary. A proper daytime basking bulb for ambient temperature in the enclosure will suffice. Be careful when choosing a bulb, as some bulbs can emit light and heat, so research bulbs for your setup. Turning the nights off at night is beneficial to simulate a day night cycle with slight temperature drops. However, ensure the temperature does not fall below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Provide a heat source that can be used at night as well. They do not require UVB light. 

Substrate

There is a wide variety of substrate options available for ball pythons. When choosing a substrate, it is important to look for something that can hold humidity well, not get too damp, and not be susceptible to mold. We recommend using reptile carpet, coco husk, or paper bedding. Mixed bedding is another option, as soil with sphagnum moss is great for maintaining humidity in the enclosure. Aspen wood shavings are another option, but the shavings must be replaced weekly to prevent an overly wet, molding substrate in the enclosure. Snake droppings should be removed daily to prevent the substrate from getting gross.  **DO NOT use any sort of cedar or pine bedding! They contain oils that are toxic to snakes!

Humidity

A ball python’s enclosure needs high humidity. The ideal humidity level is around 60%, with one spot slightly higher to aid in shedding. Typically, this spot is where the ball python regularly hides. A hygrometer is recommended to monitor humidity levels daily in the enclosure. 

Water

Ball Pythons need a large, shallow dish for hydrating and soaking. Replace the water every couple of days. If the water dish is soiled, remove it and clean it thoroughly before adding more water. 

Food

The diet of a ball python consists of whole rodents. Generally, younger ball pythons will eat a pinkie or fuzzy-sized rat, and adults can eat up to small-sized rats. However, the best way to determine the size of rodent needed for the ball python is to ensure the rodent is no bigger than the circumference of the snake. We recommend using frozen/thawed-out rodents, which are cheap, easy to store, and will not harm the snake. If using live rodents, it's a good idea to put the snake in a separate bin for feeding with the live rodent. That way, the feeding session can be watched to prevent the rodent from potentially injuring the snake. We also recommend using tongs to transfer the feeder rodent instead of the hand as the snake can mistake the hand for food. Juvenile snakes should be fed once a week; adult snakes should be fed every 2-3 weeks. Do not handle the snake for a day after feeding, as this can disrupt digestion. 

When thawing a frozen rodent for feeding, select whichever rodent that will be fed and put it in a sealed plastic bag in the fridge. Once it's thawed, put it in a bowl of warm water and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then run hot water over the bag to bring the feeder rodent to a more ‘live’ temperature and feed it to the snake with tongs. **Do not microwave frozen rodents. Do not refreeze after unthawing, as this can cause bacteria.

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