Western Hognose Care

Basic Information

The Western Hognose snake is an intermediate-level snake native to North America. They are named for their short face with more pointed snouts that they use for digging. They are a diurnal species that have the most activity in the morning and late afternoon and love to burrow underground, going to the surface to bask or feed. Hognoses are rear-fanged and have a mild venom that can cause swelling and mild discomfort to the bitten area. A well-taken care of hognose snake can live 10-15 years. 

Health

Like many reptiles, western hognoses experience brumation. Brumation is common in the colder months, and owners may notice their snakes not eating as often or refusing meals. This is normal and only a concern if they suddenly start losing weight. 

Another common issue that hognose owners may face is a stuck shed. A stuck shed happens when the humidity levels get too low, and the snake cannot naturally peel off its own shed. A simple remedy is to mist the enclosure to provide a more humid environment for the snake to shed in. If the stuck shed persists, soaking the hognose in a shallow bin of warm water for 15-30 minutes is recommended. 

It is important to always quarantine your new snake in a temporary setup with paper towels. Most snakes can be at risk for a parasite called snake smites. These parasites look like tiny black dots and can appear on snakes and various surfaces in the enclosure. While not fatal, they are very hard to eliminate if they become a heavy infestation and can cause the snake’s health to deteriorate. If the snake does become infested, it should be moved to a sterile setup with paper towels and plastic items. The enclosure should then be thoroughly bleached and cleaned. Prevent-a-mite is recommended to use to kill off anything that could be lingering and prevent future infestations. The snake can be soaked in water to drown the mites. 

Enclosures

When it comes to enclosures for western hognoses, bigger is always better. Young hognoses can make do with 5-10 gallon enclosures, while adult hognoses do well in 20-40 gallon or more enclosures (depending on male or female). Tanks and bins are cheaper options but must be modified to fit the snake's needs. It’s recommended to have an enclosure with some ventilation, but not enough to drastically affect the humidity levels. The opening, whether a screen or door, must also be secure as the snake can easily escape from their enclosures if given the opportunity. 

Hognoses like to hide and feel secure, so it's recommended that the enclosure be opaque or covered to some degree on some sides. Plenty of backgrounds can be used, like cork tile or cloth. We also recommend supplying ample decorations for hiding, like caves, cork bark, logs, and foliage. Likewise, they love to explore, so providing things that add height, like branches and tall rocks, would enrich the enclosure and allow them to make an ideal basking spot. 

Heating/Lighting

There are several options for heating the enclosure of a hognose snake. Heat tape, ceramic bulbs, heat mats, and basking bulbs are all good options. The humidity must be monitored with some of these options, as they can dry out the enclosure. As with most reptiles, there should be a hot and cool end. The hot end can range between 85-95 degrees Fahrenheit, and the cool end can range between 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit. This is important for the snake to be able to self-regulate its temperature. A thermometer with probes is recommended to monitor both ends of the enclosure. **We recommend not using a heat rock for hognoses; they can cause severe burns. 

Regarding lighting, western hognoses are diurnal, so only a daytime bulb is necessary. A proper daytime basking bulb for ambient temperature in the enclosure will suffice. Be careful when choosing a bulb, as some bulbs can emit light and heat, so research bulbs for your setup. Turning the lights off at night is beneficial to simulate a day-night cycle with slight temperature drops. However, ensure the temperature does not fall below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Provide a heat source that can be used at night as well. They do not require UVB light.

Substrate

There is a wide variety of substrate options available for western hognoses. When choosing a substrate, it is important to look for something that can hold humidity well but not get too damp, is not susceptible to mold, and is great for burrowing, as western hognoses love to dig and make tunnels. We recommend using coco husk or mixed bedding, as soil with sphagnum moss and clay is great for maintaining humidity in the enclosure and providing layers for digging tunnels. Leaf litter is also recommended for the top layer. Aspen wood shavings are another option, but the shavings must be replaced weekly to prevent an overly wet, molding substrate in the enclosure. Snake droppings should be removed daily to prevent the substrate from getting gross.  **DO NOT use any sort of cedar or pine bedding! They contain oils that are toxic to snakes!

Humidity

Western hognoses prefer a humidity level between 30% and 50% in their enclosure. Most humidity should be in the substrate rather than in the air or on the walls of the enclosure. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels. 

Water

Hognoses need a large, shallow dish for hydrating and soaking. Replace the water every couple of days. If the water dish is soiled, remove it and clean it thoroughly before adding more water. 

Food

The diet of a western hognose consists of various foods, including whole rodents, quail eggs, frog legs, and reptilinks. Regarding rodents, younger hognoses will eat a pinkie mouse, and adults can eat up to a hopper or small mouse, depending on whether the snake is male or female. However, the best way to determine the size of rodent needed for the snake is to ensure the rodent is no bigger than the circumference of the snake. We recommend using frozen/thawed-out rodents, which are cheap, easy to store, and will not harm the snake. If using live rodents, it's a good idea to put the snake in a separate bin for feeding with the live rodent. That way, the feeding session can be watched to prevent the rodent from potentially injuring the snake. We also recommend using tongs to transfer the feeder rodent instead of the hand as the snake can mistake the hand for food. Juvenile snakes should be fed 3-4 times a week; adult snakes should be fed every 5-7 days. The food being supplied should alternate between what was listed above to thrive better. Do not handle the snake for a day after feeding, as this can disrupt digestion. 

When thawing a frozen rodent for feeding, select whichever rodent that will be fed and put it in a sealed plastic bag in the fridge. Once it's thawed, put it in a bowl of warm water and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then run hot water over the bag to bring the feeder rodent to a more ‘live’ temperature and feed it to the snake with tongs. **Do not microwave frozen rodents. Do not refreeze after unthawing, as this can cause bacteria.