Leopard Gecko Care

Basic Information

Leopard geckos are a great, beginner-friendly pet for anyone wanting to enter the world of reptiles. They are easy to handle, low-maintenance, and very sociable. These geckos are the only species with eyelids and come in many varieties of patterns. They are most active at sunrise and sunset and usually lie around in their hiding spots at other times. Healthy leopard geckos can live long lifespans of up to 20 years, making them a great long-time pet. 

Health

Leopard geckos are generally very active and social. They are alert to noises and changes in light and have a good appetite. The tail should be thick, which means it's stored with enough reserve nutrients while still supplying enough during feedings. The skin should be colorful with no abnormal bumps or stuck shed (this does not apply to how pale the skin gets before shedding). Eyes should be bright and clear of shed with no redness or swelling; the same should be true of the ears. A normal shed for leopard geckos is every 1-2 months and is done by large pieces rather than a full shed. Often, they will go to the most humid part of the enclosure to aid with loosening the shed and will eat it afterward to absorb any remaining nutrients. If there is stuck shed around the eyes, mouth, and feet, the leopard gecko can be put in a shallow bin of warm water to soak and loosen the shed. Alternatively, a shedding aid spray can be used. Like many reptiles, leopard geckos can enter a state of brumation, which involves less eating and more sleeping. However, they should not be losing weight during this period and will need to be monitored. Leopard gecko tails are detachable. If they lose their tail, usually due to stress or fear, expect it to regrow in about 30 days. It is important to note that the regrown tail will not look the same as before, and the leopard gecko will need their health monitored for a while after. *Never grab or pick up a leopard gecko by the tail, as this can trigger them to detach it. 

Enclosures

A 20-gallon tank is the recommended enclosure size for a leopard gecko. While a 10-gallon tank is acceptable for juveniles, they will be better off with a 20-gallon tank when they reach adulthood. A 20-gallon tank also offers space for more than one gecko. We recommend putting various caves and humidity hides in the enclosure to provide a safe space for the geckos to feel secure in their environment and a comfortable humid spot to rest and/or shed. Low branches and other platforms can offer enrichment and provide activity, as geckos like to climb. *If you plan to have more than one leopard gecko in the same enclosure, it is important to ensure they are used to each other and will not pose a threat. Male geckos are at risk of fighting each other, and female geckos may fight if one is bigger than the other. A male and female gecko risk breeding. Siblings generally will not have an issue but will still need to be monitored. 

Heating/Lighting

The enclosure should have a warmer zone at one end that reaches around 90 degrees Fahrenheit and a cooler zone at the other, which reaches around 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a heat mat for the warm end of the enclosure, but be sure to monitor how much heat it gives off and change to a lower watt if necessary. *Be sure not to use a strong light emitting bulb as leopard geckos, especially albinos, have sensitive eyes and are susceptible to eye damage and stress. 

Substrate

Various options for lining the bottom of the enclosure include reptile carpets, soil, desert stone, flat stone/slate pieces, newspapers, and paper towels. Reptile carpets are a simple liner to place on the bottom of the enclosure, but something to absorb moisture underneath is recommended if using them. They are easy to clean old food and droppings off of and do not risk the gecko's health, but they can trap bacteria in and underneath and require frequent deep cleanings. Soil can be used for a more natural look and provide exercise and better humidity retention, but it can be a risk for impaction because it's loose and consumed by geckos when they eat free-roaming bugs. A food dish is required for loose substrate. Some brands of soil and sand are safe for reptile consumption, so research when choosing these for substrate. Clean old food and droppings from the substrate daily and maintain optimal humidity to prevent molding. 

Humidity

Humidity is required for a leopard gecko's habitat. The ideal range for humidity is between 40%-50% to ensure good skin, shed, and respiratory health. A few methods can be used to maintain proper humidity levels, such as using products like a reptile fogger, which will produce fog through a tube into the enclosure. Other methods include using damp spagnum moss, which will include monitoring to ensure it's not too wet or dry,  humidity hides, which can be filled with a damp paper towel, and coco fiber. It is recommended that some sort of humidity gauge be used to monitor humidity levels in the enclosure at all times. If the leopard gecko is struggling to shed, a light misting can be done to provide more moisture. 

Water

Leopard Geckos need a constant water source, so provide a shallow dish of fresh water at all times. Replace and clean daily. 

Food

Live insects make up the majority of a leopard gecko's diet. A regular diet may consist of a few dubia roaches, mealworms, superworms, or crickets every few days for adult leopard geckos and daily for juveniles. Giving calcium or multivitamin supplements to your leopard gecko once a week is recommended to ensure they get enough nutrients for their diet. If you feed the live insects into the tank/vivarium with no food dish, remove any uneaten bugs to prevent them from hurting the gecko. *Never use wild caught insects as they could have diseases or toxins and may not be clean enough to eat. Always buy feeders from reputable stores. 

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