Green Tree Python Care

Green Tree Python Care Guide

Basic Information

Green tree pythons are quickly becoming a popular choice among snake enthusiasts due to their vibrant colors and sedentary lifestyle, which allows them to spend time among branches and trees. They are initially from New Guinea and are more acclimated to tropical climates compared to many other snakes. They can reach lengths of up to 8 feet and live for 15 to 20 years. Due to their husbandry requirements, these snakes are considered intermediate to high-level reptile pets. 

Health

A common issue green tree python owners may face is a stuck shed. A stuck shed occurs when humidity levels are too low, preventing the python from shedding its skin naturally. A simple remedy is to mist the enclosure to provide a more humid environment for the python to shed in. If the stuck shed persists, soaking the snake in a shallow bin of warm water for 15-30 minutes is recommended. 

It is crucial to always quarantine your new ball python in a temporary setup with paper towels. Ball pythons can be at risk of a parasite called snake mites. These parasites appear as tiny black dots and can be found on snakes and various surfaces within the enclosure. While not fatal, they are very hard to eliminate if they become a heavy infestation and can cause the ball python’s health to deteriorate. If the snake does become infested, it should be moved to a sterile setup with paper towels and plastic items. The enclosure should then be thoroughly bleached and cleaned. Provent-a-Mite is recommended for use to kill off any lingering pests and prevent future infestations. The ball python can be soaked in water to drown the mites. 

Enclosures

Green Tree Pythons are primarily arboreal, so their enclosure should be vertically focused rather than horizontally. Young pythons can be kept in a 20- to 30-gallon enclosure, but as they grow, they will need to be upgraded to a 60-gallon enclosure or larger. They need enough room to stretch out and climb, so use that as your base. Some screen siding is beneficial for airflow; however, you may face challenges in maintaining humidity, so be sure to have some sides covered, in addition to the screened sides. Their enclosure needs to be waterproof, include adequate ventilation, and have openings on the sides rather than the top. The substrate should be a few inches deep on the bottom for cushioning. Include a wide array of branches and objects for climbing horizontally and vertically, as these are where your python will spend most of its time, especially during the day. Ensure there are plenty of ways for the snake to climb up and down comfortably, as they will come down to drink and eat their food. Providing foliage for cover is also recommended. **Be sure the enclosure is secure, as snakes will try to escape!

Heating/Lighting

It is recommended for green tree pythons to follow a 12-hour day and 12-hour night cycle. Using a basking spot lamp on one side of the enclosure is recommended to create a hotspot for temperature regulation, while maintaining a cooler end on the other side. A UVB bulb is recommended to support overall health and digestion. Turn all lights off at night. If you need a supplementary heat source at night, use a nighttime bulb that emits no light or a heat mat under the enclosure. 

For temperatures, we recommend higher temperatures of around 80-85 degrees Fahrenheight during the day and around 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Create an ambient temperature gradient in the enclosure by placing the heat sources strategically on one side, rather than at the center of the enclosure. Use a thermometer with probes on both ends of the enclosure. 

**Green tree pythons can suffer from heat stress if the temperatures are too high, so be sure to monitor the temperature closely, especially during feedings. 

Substrate

Due to the high humidity required for green tree pythons, a substrate that retains moisture well is recommended. Reptisoil and Eco-Earth are both excellent choices, making your python feel more at home. The substrate should be about 3-4 inches deep, so if your snake falls, it will be at least cushioned. Spot clean the substrate daily and completely replace it every 4 months to prevent potential mold and bacterial growth. 

Humidity

The humidity levels for a green tree python’s enclosure should be maintained around 50-70% through frequent misting. Misting should be done daily, allowing sufficient time for the substrate to dry between applications. Adequate ventilation will allow the substrate to dry and lower the humidity before it is raised again. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels in the enclosure at all times. 

Water

Alongside the hydration they will get from their daily misting, it is also recommended to provide a large water bowl with clean water. Clean frequently. 

Food

The diet of a green tree python consists of whole rodents. Generally, younger pythons will eat a pinkie or fuzzy-sized mouse, and adults can eat up to adult mice or small-sized rats. However, the best way to determine the size of the rodent needed for the python is to ensure the rodent is no bigger than the circumference of the snake. We recommend using frozen/thawed-out rodents, which are cheap, easy to store, and will not harm the snake. If using live rodents, it's a good idea to put the snake in a separate bin for feeding with the live rodent. That way, the feeding session can be watched to prevent the rodent from potentially injuring the snake. We also recommend using tongs to transfer the feeder rodent instead of your hand, as the snake can mistake your hand for food. Juvenile snakes should be fed once a week; adult snakes should be fed every 2-3 weeks. Do not handle the snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can disrupt its digestion. It’s also important to note that overfeeding green tree pythons can lead to weight issues, as they are more sedentary compared to other species of snakes. 

**Green tree pythons are at risk of regurgitation if the temperatures in their enclosure are too high!

When thawing a frozen rodent for feeding, select the rodent that will be fed and place it in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator. Once it's thawed, put it in a bowl of warm water and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then run hot water over the bag to bring the feeder rodent to a more ‘live’ temperature and feed it to the snake with tongs. **Do not microwave frozen rodents. Do not refreeze thawed food, as this can promote bacterial growth.

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