Bearded Dragon Care

Bearded dragons have become a staple pet in the reptile world for decades. Here, we’ve compiled a care guide containing everything you need to know about keeping them as a pet.

Basic Information

Bearded dragons, a native of Australia, are known for their more laid-back personality and social interactions. These reptiles are named after the folds around their neck; when they feel threatened, they darken and inflate. They are primarily active during the day and are used to environments where the day is hot and the nights are cold. Bearded dragons like running and climbing in their environments and digging and burrowing in caves. The life span of bearded dragons can go anywhere from 10 to 20 years, making them a long commitment pet.

Health

Enclosures must meet all temperature and lighting needs for a healthy bearded dragon to ensure good digestion and constant core body temperature regulation. Picking out the right substrate is vital to prevent impactions and offer regular exercise. The most common disease for bearded dragons is a metabolic bone disease, usually caused by a lack of UVB light, which can cause weakening muscles and bones. 

Shedding is a naturally occurring process for reptiles. Adult bearded dragons shed every few months, while younger ones will shed more frequently. You’ll know when the bearded dragon is getting ready to shed when the skin looks dry and dull. Most of the time, as long as the bearded dragon is well-hydrated, there will be no issues with the shedding process. If the shed seems stuck or takes much more effort to come off, you can bathe the bearded dragon in shallow, warm water for a few minutes. Be sure to check humidity levels and fresh water in the enclosure. 

During the colder seasons, bearded dragons enter a phase called brumation, where they do not eat as much and appear more lethargic. This is completely normal for all reptiles. However, they should be monitored to ensure they are still eating and not losing weight.

Female bearded dragons may lay eggs even if never paired with a male. This is normal, and the eggs can be frozen and disposed of. There is a slim chance that they could become egg-bound if there is no optimal spot for digging and laying eggs, so be sure there are ample digging areas. This becomes less frequent with age.

Enclosures

Bearded dragons, especially adults, need a lot of space as they love to run and climb. In the wild, they are used to presiding over a large territory, so the enclosure should reflect that environment and include basking and hiding areas. Using a 40-gal tank or vivarium with many different structures for basking and hiding is highly recommended. The enclosure must be very secure, with the doors being impossible to open for the bearded dragon, and have proper ventilation to reduce the risk of respiratory issues and too much humidity. Basking spots can be placed where the heat light is placed. Stones, branches, and hammocks would be optimal. The enclosure should have a basking area on one end and a cooling area on the other to help with temperature regulation. Shaded areas are also recommended as bearded dragons prefer dark spots for sleeping and entering brumation.

Heating/Lighting

Heat lamps are extremely important for bearded dragons as they are crucial for regulating their body temperature. Create a basking spot in the enclosure using the correct bulbs, light fixtures, and decorations. The basking spot should be around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The heat lamp should not be touchable by the bearded dragon, so we recommend placing a dome fixture on top of a wire mesh screen covering or having some sort of mesh covering protecting the bulb. The bearded dragon must not be too close to the heat lamp from their basking spot. Use an infrared thermometer to gauge how effective the basking spot is.  

UVB is absolutely essential for a bearded dragon to survive, as they cannot digest vitamin D3 and need enough Vitamin D for calcium absorption to prevent bone disease and possible death. A light fixture with a UVB bulb covering about half the enclosure is highly recommended. 

Reptiles use their environment to warm up and cool down, so providing a hot and cold end for your bearded dragon is crucial. One end should have a heat lamp, UVB light, and basking items; the other should have no light and a cave. The ambient temperature in the enclosure should be around 70-80 degrees with a 90-95 degrees hotspot. Thermometers are recommended to monitor temperatures on both sides of the enclosure and ensure the lighting provides optimal conditions. 

Substrate

Bearded dragons instinctively dig, so providing a substrate that encourages that behavior is essential. A sand or sand/soil mix that is reptile-safe for a substrate or reptile carpet or paper towels is recommended. However, the substrate mustn't be loose, as bearded dragons can quickly develop joint problems and muscle deficiency. You can use reptile-safe clay or topsoil on top as a firming layer. The substrate should provide some resistance to promote exercise while digging. **It is crucial to have a reptile-safe substrate for your bearded dragon, as an unsafe substrate can cause skin damage. Impactions can also occur when the bearded dragon’s digestive system gets blocked from eating something that is not digestible, which can happen when eating some of the non-safe substrates. 

Humidity 

Generally, you will not need to do anything with the humidity for bearded dragons as long as the enclosure has proper ventilation. They need lower humidity to prevent any sort of health problems. Still, generally, they will be okay with whatever the home is like unless the humidity is constantly high. We recommend buying a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels in your bearded dragon’s enclosure. If your bearded dragon is dealing with a stuck shed at low humidity, you can lightly mist it to aid the shedding process. 

Water

Generally, a bearded dragon gets most of its hydration from the water in its food, but it is still recommended that a water source be present in the enclosure. A shallow dish of clean water will be fine, as it is easily accessible and there when needed. Bearded dragons do not drink water daily and may seldom touch it at times, but be sure to replace it daily so it is there for them when needed. 

Food

Bearded dragons are omnivorous, eating a mix of live insects and veggies. The go-to insects for bearded dragons are dubia roaches and crickets, as they offer ample vitamins and nutrients alongside the veggies. Occasionally, any sort of worm, like hornworms, waxworms, superworms, and mealworms, can also be offered as a treat but not a staple meal. Veggie options include mustard greens, watercress, collared greens, and many other leafy greens, which are good choices. Avoid overconsumption of veggies like kale and spinach, which can cause nutritional issues. Supplements such as calcium can be dusted on the live insects to provide more essential nutrients. 

When feeding your bearded dragon, moderation is important. Adult bearded dragons must only be fed every couple of days and with proper portion size. Offer live insects and a small handful of veggies. Morning feeding is recommended so the bearded dragon can properly digest during the day. Monitor its body condition to be aware of necessary diet changes, including more spaced-out or frequent feedings. Younger dragons will require more frequent feedings of 1-2 days and more live insects than veggies, while adult bearded dragons will eat more veggies than live insects.