Kenyan Sand Boa Care
Kenyan Sand Boa Care Guide
Basic Information
The Kenyan Sand boa is a unique, non-venomous snake native to Northeastern parts of Africa. Males are typically small, while females can be double their size at around 1 year old. They are unique in that they feel very smooth besides the end of their tail which has bumps that help them for burrowing. Sand boas range in different colorations of browns, oranges, and yellows and display very docile behaviors, typically coiling in a ball or running away instead of striking. These reptiles are considered beginner-intermediate level and can live up to 15-20 years in captivity.
Health
A common issue sand boa owners may face is a stuck shed. A stuck shed occurs when humidity levels are too low, preventing the snake from shedding its skin naturally. A simple remedy is to mist the enclosure to provide a more humid environment for the snake to shed in. If the shed becomes stuck, soaking the snake in a shallow bin of warm water for 15-30 minutes is recommended.
It is crucial to always quarantine your new snake in a temporary setup with paper towels. Snakes can be at risk of a parasite called snake mites. These parasites appear as tiny black dots and can be found on snakes and various surfaces within the enclosure. While not fatal, they are very hard to eliminate if they become a heavy infestation and can cause the sand boa’s health to deteriorate. If the snake does become infested, it should be moved to a sterile setup with paper towels and plastic items. The enclosure should then be thoroughly bleached and cleaned. Provent-a-Mite is recommended for use to kill off any lingering pests and prevent future infestations. The snake can be soaked in water to drown the mites.
Enclosures
Sand boas are terrestrial snakes, so you should prioritize a wide tank rather than a tall tank. For an adult sand boa, the recommended size tank is around 20 gallons for a single snake. For multiple, 20 to 40 gallon tanks are ideal. Along with the substrate layer, provide many hiding areas so the snake has areas where it can feel safe and out of the open. Cork bark and low branches are also a great addition for enrichment, as well as any leafy plants which can provide more hiding areas.
Heating/Lighting
It is recommended for sand boas to follow a 12-hour day and 12-hour night cycle as they are primarily nocturnal. Using a basking spot lamp on one side of the enclosure is recommended to create a hotspot for temperature regulation, while maintaining a cooler end on the other side. A UVB bulb is recommended to support overall health and digestion. Turn all the lights off at night. If you need a supplementary heat source at night, use a nighttime bulb that emits no light or a heat mat under the enclosure.
For temperatures, we recommend higher temperatures of around 80-85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and around 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit at night. The basking area should be no higher than 95 degrees. Create an ambient temperature gradient in the enclosure by placing the heat sources strategically on one side, rather than at the center. Use a thermometer with probes on both ends of the enclosure.
Substrate
There are a few different substrate options you can choose for sand boas, but it’s important to keep in mind that whatever is chosen should be loose and smooth for the sand boa’s burrowing habits without causing harm. Certain brands of sand made specifically for reptiles are a good option, as well as a mix of 60% soil and 40% sand. Loose soil with sphagnum moss on top is also a good choice. Boas will spend a lot of time in the substrate so the substrate also needs to hold moisture well for the reptile while it's burrowing. Substrates should be spot cleaned daily and fully replaced every 3-4 months.
Humidity
Since sand boas are more acclimated to drier conditions, you do not need to worry about humidity levels too much. Generally humidity should be kept at or around 50% humidity. Proper ventilation and good placement of the water bowl should be enough to keep the humidity around an optimal level. You should still have a humidity hide that has a slightly higher humidity to help when the sand boa sheds. If you feel the humidity has gotten too low, you can gently mist the enclosure as needed. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels. **Keep in mind sand boas do not do well with high humidity!
Water
Sand boas need a large, shallow dish for hydrating and soaking. Replace the water every couple of days. If the water dish is soiled, remove it and clean it thoroughly before adding more water.
Food
The diet of a sand boa consists of whole rodents. Generally, younger boas will eat a pinkie or fuzzy-sized mouse, and adults can eat up to small mice. However, the best way to determine the size of the rodent needed for the snake is to ensure the rodent is no bigger than the circumference of the snake. We recommend using frozen/thawed-out rodents, which are cheap, easy to store, and will not harm the snake. If using live rodents, it's a good idea to put the snake in a separate bin for feeding with the live rodent. That way, the feeding session can be watched to prevent the rodent from potentially injuring the snake. We also recommend using tongs to transfer the feeder rodent instead of your hand, as the snake can mistake your hand for food. Juvenile snakes should be fed once a week; adult snakes should be fed every 2 weeks. Do not handle the snake for at least a day after feeding, as this can disrupt its digestion. It’s important to note that sand boas are aggressive feeders so take precautions for feeding time.
When thawing a frozen rodent for feeding, select the rodent that will be fed and place it in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator. Once it's thawed, put it in a bowl of warm water and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then run hot water over the bag to bring the feeder rodent to a more ‘live’ temperature and feed it to the snake with tongs. **Do not microwave frozen rodents. Do not refreeze thawed food, as this can promote bacterial growth.