Red-Eyed Tree Frog Care

Red-eyed Tree Frog Care Guide

Basic Information

The red-eyed tree frog is one of the most vibrant and beloved amphibians in the reptile world. They are notably known for their vibrant colors and bright red eyes which are practically their trademark and why they are considered mascots of rainforests. These frogs are friendly and do well together in groups making them a fun pet for intermediate handlers. They only grow up to 2-3 inches and live around 5-8 years with proper husbandry. 

Health

It is not recommended to handle a red-eyed tree frog. They have very delicate skin and can absorb whatever may be on your hands. Their size also makes handling risky, as they do not grow much more than a few inches. If you absolutely must handle them, use powder-free gloves and coax them into a cupped hand. Be very careful, as they may jump and escape, which can become a hassle, especially if they escape from the enclosure. This can become very life-threatening if this does happen. Red-eyed tree frogs also secrete a toxin from glands in their skin which can never come into contact with eyes, mouth, or open wounds. 

Reptiles/amphibians need a supplement of calcium and D3 in their diet every so often, which can be done by dusting their regularly consumed insects or food. Otherwise, they can develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). This can look like deformed or weakened limbs and a weaker jaw, which can prevent the animal from eating correctly. Increase calcium and D3 intake as needed. **It is recommended that their food be dusted weekly with calcium/D3 supplement. 

Improper husbandry can result in fungal and bacterial infections in the frog. It is important to always have proper ventilation alongside the proper humidity levels as well as regular cleanings often to prevent any bacterial or fungal growth in the enclosure. Respiratory infections can also be caused by improper ventilation and humidity levels in the enclosure. 

Enclosures

For red-eyed tree frogs, arboreal enclosures will be your best option. Depending on how many you are housing, you can do a 10-gallon enclosure for 1-3 or a 20+ gallon enclosure for more than 3. These frogs do not get very big, but require a decent amount of arboreal space for leaping between branches and to have different heat levels inside the enclosure. Be sure that the enclosure is a glass enclosure with a screen top for some ventilation. For decoration options, you definitely want to include different length wood and branches for climbing and hiding, and live or artificial plants for shaded areas and drinking water droplets. Be sure to use safe decorations that have not been treated with any chemicals as a frog’s skin is very sensitive to chemicals and they can become sick if they absorb anything toxic to them. Spot clean daily. Thoroughly clean habitat weekly.

Heating/Lighting

Frogs are a lot more sensitive to heat, so it is imperative that the heat range is monitored with multiple thermometers across the enclosure. The basking area should reach around 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit while the cooler end can be around 68-74 degrees Fahrenheit. The best method is using an under tank heat mat connected to a thermometer so that it can be adjusted at all times. Placing it underneath along with a rock or some other kind of decoration on top provides a nice resting area for the frogs. 

For lighting, using a low wattage daylight basking bulb is recommended alongside a UVB light for 12 hours during the day. Frogs need a day/night cycle for optimal health. Bulbs should be placed high above the enclosure in an area where the frogs typically bask but with some hiding spots available as well. A day/night timer can help maintain a healthy day and night cycle for the frog. 

Substrate

For substrate, we recommend using coco fiber along with a layer of sphagnum moss on the bottom as these are both efficient at helping with humidity levels and are safer for the frogs skin. You don’t need a thick layer of substrate, about an inch deep with a thin layer of sphagnum as the frogs will spend most of their time climbing somewhere in the enclosure. 

Humidity

This species of frogs thrive with high humidity levels. The humidity level in the enclosure should be maintained at around 70-80% at all times. Misting daily, even twice a day once in the morning and once in the evening can help with maintaining the required humidity. Red-eyed tree frogs breathe in the water through their skin so be sure the water is dechlorinated and safe for not only misting, but drinking as well. Use a mister to mist the enclosure and any drip plants you have included in the enclosure. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity levels in the enclosure. 

Water

Make sure there is a water bowl available at all times that is large enough for them to soak in but shallow enough to where they can easily get in and out. Use dechlorinated water, as distilled water does not contain the salts and minerals that are necessary for hydration. Water must be refreshed everyday.

Food

Red-eyed tree frogs are insectivores, which means they eat primarily an insect diet. Gut-loaded insects such as crickets, earthworms, silkworms, and dubia roaches are recommended. However, any insect with an exoskeleton should not be fed as often as they can be detrimental to the frog’s digestive system. Smaller frogs should be fed everyday or every other day while adult frogs, usually above 3 inches, should be fed every 2-3 days. It’s important to note that frogs are opportunistic eaters, which means that they will eat regardless of if they are hungry or not, which means obesity is a very common potential problem. Feed no more than 3-6 insects at a time depending on size of the frog. Use a food dish for easy access. We also recommend using calcium supplements and multivitamin supplements weekly. 

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