Rose Hair Tarantula Care

Rose Hair Tarantula Care Guide

Basic Information

Rose Hair Tarantulas are a popular beginner tarantula from Chile, Bolivia, and Argentina. They are relatively slow-growing and reach about 3-6 inches long. These tarantulas are known for their very docile, gentle temperament. Males can live between 3 and 5 years, while females can live up to 10 years. Compared to some species, rose hairs are very easy to care for, with regular feedings and an environment that's simple to set up. 

Health

Regarding handling, rose-hair tarantulas are very gentle and docile compared to other species, although temperaments can vary. The majority will tolerate handling, but the bottom line is that it's best not to handle them. They may feel stressed or threatened if handling is done carelessly, and may bite or kick hairs from their abdomen, which can cause irritation, especially in the eyes. Alternatively, tarantulas are very fragile. Even a foot-long drop is deadly to them, so if you are not used to handling tarantulas regularly, don’t. 

All tarantulas go through a period of molting. Molting for a tarantula is when they shed their old exoskeleton and replace it with a new one. The signs to look for are: the tarantula is still and not eating, the spider is lying on its back, and its legs are curled. This is entirely normal. What is essential is that there is no feeding or handling during this time. Tarantulas are very vulnerable and easily susceptible to stress during this period, and because they are so soft and unable to move, live food may damage them. It's recommended that they are not fed or handled for at least 2 weeks or until the new exoskeleton is hardened, which can be identified if the new fangs are hardened. 

Enclosures

Spiderling tarantulas can be kept in small deli cups with the appropriate substrate. As they grow, they can be moved to bigger deli cups or critter cages until they are fully grown and ready to move to a proper enclosure. Adult tarantulas do not need a lot of space. A 10-gallon tank is more than enough. Getting a tank setup with appropriate ventilation through small holes on the side and a front-opening door is recommended. The front-opening door ensures easy access for adding and changing water, dropping in food, removing waste, and avoiding disturbing any webs or burrows made by the tarantula. Most of the tank will be substrate-filled, as rose hairs are terrestrial and make burrows. As for decor options, plant, vine, or leaf litter is ideal for a more natural look. However, as long as the enclosure is not overcrowded, many decoration options are available.

Heating/Lighting

Rose hair tarantulas need no additional lighting. It is best to simulate a natural day-night cycle as they are nocturnal. Extra lighting may stress them out, as they are sensitive to bright lights. An ambient temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit is preferred for heating, while it can drop to around 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. If your house is always around these temperatures, then generally no heat source is needed, as the tarantula will be comfortable if those temperatures are met. If a heat source is necessary, use a heat mat with a thermometer to keep the enclosure at ambient temperature when needed. 

Substrate

For substrate options, you want something clean, chemical-free that holds moisture well without molding. Coco fiber is a good option, as it meets those criteria and is excellent for the tarantula to burrow in. Other options include peat moss and any organic, pesticide-free potting soil. When lining the enclosure, make it around 4-5 inches deep to allow the tarantula to make a nice burrow for itself. Replace the substrate every 3-4 months. 

Humidity

Rose Hair Tarantulas like a moderate humidity of around 55-60%. Since rose hairs like to burrow, keeping the substrate relatively moist with gentle misting is also a good idea. It's important to mist the enclosure and not right at the tarantulas, as this will cause stress. Misting in the burrows is also a good idea, but be sure to monitor the state of the substrate and humidity levels to prevent molding. Use a hygrometer to monitor humidity. 

Water

For tarantulas, it's recommended that fresh water be given in a shallow water dish. Bottlecaps and 2-oz cups are popular for people with multiple tarantulas, as they can be easily grabbed with tweezers to be cleaned and refilled with fresh water. If very soiled, they are easily replaceable. Otherwise, use store-bought shallow water dishes with easy access. This is essential as tarantulas are easily capable of drowning. 

Food

Generally, most adult tarantulas eat live insects as a primary food source. Gut-loaded insects are the best option, including crickets, superworms, dubia roaches, and small mice on infrequent occasions. Typically, adults will need to be fed once or twice a week. However, most tarantulas have different feeding frequencies, so seeing how your tarantula is with regular feeding first, then adjusting is recommended. Dust food with calcium and/or multivitamins every so often. 

Spiderling tarantulas can eat fruit flies and prekilled, small dubia nymphs twice a week. 

**Do not feed a tarantula while it's in pre-molting or molting. They are vulnerable and can become stressed. Wait 24 to 48 hours after molting for feeding.

Have another question? Contact Us