Northern Blue Tongue Skink Care

Blue Tongue Skink Care Guide

Basic Information

Blue-tongued skinks are native to Australia and parts of Indonesia. There are different species and subspecies, including the northern and eastern blue tongues as well as the Indonesian blue tongue. This guide is specifically for the northern blue tongue, which is one of the most popular. However, the care for these skinks is very similar among all species, so most of the information can be applied to all.

These skinks are excellent options for beginner and intermediate reptile enthusiasts, with an average lifespan of 15 to 20 years. They require a significant amount of physical and mental care, as they are a type of reptile that becomes easily bored. They are also very expressive, exhibiting different body language depending on their moods. Compared to many other reptiles, blue-tongue skinks are considered more high-maintenance and expensive, so be sure to consider all this when thinking about purchasing one. 

Health

Like many reptiles, blue-tongue skinks experience brumation. Brumation is common in the colder months, and owners may notice their skink not eating as often or refusing meals. This is normal and only a concern if it suddenly starts losing weight or stops eating altogether. 

A common issue that skink owners may face is a stuck shed. A stuck shed occurs when humidity levels drop too low, preventing the skink from naturally shedding. A simple remedy is to mist the enclosure to create a more humid environment that encourages them to shed. If the stuck shed persists, soaking it in a shallow bin of warm water for 15-30 minutes is recommended. **Be very careful, as stuck shed on the fingers, toes, and eye caps is a significant possibility for skinks. ** This can result in the loss of limbs and eyes, so monitor every shed cycle to ensure no difficulties arise. 

Blue-tongue skinks need a supplement of calcium and D3 in their diet every so often, which can be done by dusting their regularly consumed insects or food. Otherwise, they can develop metabolic bone disease (MBD). This can manifest as deformed or weakened limbs and a weaker jaw, which can prevent the skink from eating properly. Increase calcium and D3 intake as needed. **It is recommended that their food be dusted weekly with calcium and daily with a D3 supplement. Multivitamin supplements are also recommended. 

It is crucial to always quarantine your new skink in a temporary setup with paper towels. Most skinks can be at risk of a parasite called snake mites. These parasites appear as tiny black dots and can be found on the animal and various surfaces within the enclosure. While not fatal, they are very hard to eliminate if they become a heavy infestation and can cause the reptile’s health to deteriorate. If the skink does become infested, it should be moved to a sterile setup with paper towels and plastic items. The enclosure should then be thoroughly bleached and cleaned. Provent-a-Mite is recommended for use to kill off any lingering pests and prevent future infestations. The skink can be soaked in water to drown the mites. Seek veterinary care if the parasites worsen and the skink's health deteriorates. 

Enclosures

Blue-tongue skinks are terrestrial, meaning they require a large amount of floor space, as they spend most of their lives on the ground. Larger tanks are always better, especially for adult skinks. A 4’x2’x2’ reptile enclosure is the most optimal for adult skinks and can be easily equipped with all items needed for an ideal habitat. Supply proper ventilation through screened tops or walls. Ensure the enclosure is secure, as skinks are notorious for being escape artists. A flat stone in the basking area is also recommended. Skinks are not climbers, so there is no need to provide decorations specifically for climbing. Hides are a great addition to include in their enclosure. 

Heating/Lighting

For ideal temperatures for blue-tongue skinks, the hot end of the enclosure should be maintained at approximately 90-100°F, while the cool end should be kept at around 75-80°F. Never drop below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a thermometer with probes at each end to monitor temperatures. Using a basking light or some overhead heat emitter is recommended for the daytime. If temperatures drop too much to maintain optimal temperature at night, consider using a heat mat or heat tape. However, be cautious with the temperature, as exposure to excessive direct heat can cause burns to the skink. 

In terms of UVB, if they receive ample sunlight, the use of a UVB bulb is not necessary, and generally, skinks will do well. However, it's always recommended to use one regardless, as it helps aid the absorption of D3 better. UVB bulbs should be used 12 hours a day and shut off at night. 

Substrate

Blue-tongue skinks do not need substrate that maintains humidity. Instead, options like straw or aspen bedding are a good go-to choice. Paper products, such as shredded newspaper or paper towels, are also a cheap and easy choice, as they are easy to clean and replace. However, you want to ensure a nice, thick layer of the substrate of your choice, as skinks love to burrow and dig. Spot clean the substrate daily. 

**Do not use unnatural, hazardous substrate options such as cypress mulch, pine or cedar shavings, calci-sand, and untreated soil, as they are toxic to skinks and can also cause impactions when ingested. 

Humidity

Different types of blue-tongued skinks require varying humidity levels. For the northern blue-tongue skink, lower humidity levels, ranging from 30 to 40%, are needed, accompanied by high ventilation. A hygrometer should be used to measure the humidity in the enclosure at all times. Low humidity can cause stuck shed and pyramiding of the scales. Mist the enclosure when needed. 

Water

Blue-tongue skinks require a constant water source for drinking and soaking, so provide a large, shallow dish of fresh water at all times. Replace and clean daily. 

Food

Blue-Tongue Skinks are omnivorous and require a wide variety of animal and plant products. Young skinks need to be fed once daily, while adult skinks can be fed 2-3 times weekly.  For young skinks, their diet should consist of about 70% protein, while adults require approximately 50% protein to avoid any health issues. Options for vegetables include squash, bell peppers, green beans, and any dark leafy greens. Fruits are also a valuable addition to their diets, accounting for approximately 10% of their food intake. Fruit options include berries, peaches, bananas, and watermelon. 

For protein, dog and cat food are great options. However, they need to be premium dog or cat food without grain or filler products. Hard-boiled eggs, boiled chicken, ground meats, and snails are also good options for protein. Otherwise, insects are a great go-to and are commonly sold by pet suppliers. Options for insects include mealworms, superworms, crickets, and waxworms. Pinky rats are also a good occasional treat. 

**Never feed your skink citrus fruits, avocados, rhubarb, or onions. Do not overfeed if using kale or spinach, or they will develop growth issues.

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